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I bought this machine (Hobart Handler 140) more than a year ago and have place it through its paces. It comes with the regulator, switch and hose so you only need the tank. Of course you can consume flux core without the tank. Remember that you can gain away with welding stainless with Argon but Trimix or an Argon/CO2 mix it recommended. I already had a helmet etc. so another $120 for a modern beefy R40 Argon tank and I was MIG welding aluminum.
This is a fully functional MIG welder that runs on 115V (20 amps) recent. It is well made and I haven't had any problems with durability or malfunctions, it is quite superb in that respect. It is quite portable and I like the safety switch which is only live when you're actually welding. I also called relieve once (about the liner) and they were prompt and kindly. It does have one slight annoyance that the door latch is made of plastic and doesn't usually latch properly, but since the door hangs down when closed anyway, it really doesn't matter.
I've welded various thicknesses of peaceful steel, Stainless and Aluminum with it and, for the most share, it has performed as advertised. I've also stale both the 1lb roles and the 10lb rolls. One dinky spot, the spring is a bit too long on the microscopic rolls and you have to place the lock nut for them on backwards in order to accept grievous enough friction if you're using aluminum wire.
The machine does indeed weld 3/16" steel in one pass if you go very boring and have a quiet technique. If you are looking for something to weld heavy steel often, gather a stick welder for half the money, or recede to a 220 machine that will hurry heavier wire. With respect to heavy steel, I wanted this machine unprejudiced for occasional smaller welds and it delivers there. On light sheet, it is like a glue gun for metal and fully in its element. It comes with Miller type tips but I actually grasp the shorter, flat nosed, Lincoln tips (which fit perfectly) for steel.
I've also welded a lot of stainless in the 12-18 ga range with it and it has been colossal at that as well.
Welding aluminum with this machine, as with every MIG except a spool gun in this power range, is a plain process. On thinner material, you need to be very quickly and very unexcited. On thicker material, it can be really kindly IF you have gracious karma, reflect gay thoughts and have everything just - leer below. If you're buying it primarily to weld aluminum though - this is not the appropriate class of machine for you. Depending on what you want to do, see for a 220 machine with intellectual urge control, or a TIG, or even a henrob torch or Al "brazing" rods. No matter how pleasurable you are, it is a wound and you'll waste up with at least a few bird's nests per project with this machine.
How to weld heavier aluminum with this machine.
1. consume a .045 tip. The machine only takes .030 aluminum wire and they recommend a .035 tip for aluminum but it isn't gigantic enough. You really need to travel to the .045 tip for aluminum or you aren't going to weld more than a couple of minutes before you commence a bird's nest factory. Tips are only about a buck a allotment.
2. Hold the gun hose very straight, especially on the machine kill. This is slow and difficult sometimes but it makes a huge incompatibility.
3. Exercise 5 series wire (e.g. 5356 - app. $5/lb. from several online sources like weldingsupply) instead of the 4043
that you glimpse at home depot or harbor freight. Especially at the highest amperage, the 4043 is virtually unuseable in this machine (at least without a lot of headaches), even with the nylon liner. One annoying thing is that the 5356 is harder to feed approach the raze of the role and will be more prone to kinking. The 5356 does seem to require a itsy-bitsy bit more heat so you need to always push the weld and go dull on thicker material - ideally with the material flat. This machine rates at 5-10 amps more than the other machines on the market (140 vs. 130-135) . It doesn't sound like remarkable of an advantage but I read elsewhere that you can't bag penetration with the 5356 in 115V machines and that objective isn't suitable with this machine. I have a 450 gal 1/8" aluminum hot tub to indicate it.
4. Expend a nylon liner if you notion to weld a lot of aluminum. They are $17-$25, mine is from Miller. Also do certain that it is perfectly chop and aligned to the drive wheel.
5. Produce positive that the aluminum is very tidy.
In general, it is a superb machine with salubrious relieve and versatility. In its niche, it is a very safe choice in relation to the other brands. I don't give it all the stars really only because they should be a bit more up front in their advertising that while it does weld aluminum, the machine (like others in its class) really isn't a tall choice for that.
Great shrimp welder, which I veteran primarily for autobody panels. Lots of heat, gas valve and regulators work well. Imprint was unbeatable when compared with a Lincoln or Miller available at mountainous box stores. With free delivery what could be better?
I treasure it. I've made very successful welds on 1/8" steel using .035 wire and 25/75 argon/co2 mix, 5/32" cast aluminum using .035 aluminum wire with 100% argon, (repaired Webber gas grill conceal hinge that broke in a gale: Saved a fair penny!), 24 gauge steel using .023" wire 25/75 argon/co2, and several other thicknesses of steel up to 5/32". Flux core wire works well too on 1/8" and thicker steel, but of course not as graceful a weld. Easy to plot up, adjust, and learn to utilize. Have not yet exceeded the duty cycle or caused a circuit breaker to commence. I have found that one of the keys is to survey at the work from the side so the puddle is always visible. I spend a self-darkening helmet: expensive, but I mediate worth it. My previous experience is with a torch and with 220v buzz box. The MIG makes strong welds in material 1/8" and thinner so considerable easier. Prefer one and appreciate it.
